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Old 01-02-2008, 04:24 PM   #16
aarc240
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As the car already has a log book my approach would be

1 rebuild the rear support to get the harnesses through and mounted.
2 clean up all dodgy welds

leave the rest alone unless the tubing is scarily tiny (which by the pics it isn't) or really thin (unlikely).
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Old 01-02-2008, 06:35 PM   #17
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will no more on monday about whats happening with it.

currently working around whats there, maybe mount the harnesses from the cage?

MATT
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Old 02-02-2008, 12:32 AM   #18
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Referring to the current CAMS manual:

/quote
Section 6: General Requirements for Cars and Drivers
2008 CAMS Manual of Motor Sport
General Requirements for Cars and Drivers
Schedule I - Safety Harnesses / Window Nets
not applicable to Superkarts)

1. GENERAL REQUIREMENTS
A safety harness (including a seat belt) shall be compliant with a Standard as specified below and be fitted
and worn in accordance with the manufacturer’s directions, with tables of this Schedule and any additional
requirement imposed by specific category, group and/or supplementary regulations.
Each safety harness shall comply at least with one of the Standards as specified in Table 1 below.
Harnesses of a higher level than specified are permitted and encouraged.
Important Note: Some safety harnesses may not comply with civil registration requirements. Where the
automobile is to be driven on a public road, it is the competitor’s responsibility to ensure that it complies with
civil legislation.

2. MOUNTINGS

A safety harness shall be securely mounted on at least two points (Type D), three points (Types B and C) or
five points (Type A) in compliance with the prescriptions of Drawings I-1, I-2 and I-3. If the two shoulder
straps join prior to a common mounting point then that junction shall be at least 150mm behind the wearer’s
neck.

A safety harness shall be mounted as per one of the following:

(a) on a series production automobile, any unmodified seat belt mounting point may be used;
(b) where a safety harness is affixed to an un-reinforced section of the body shell, each attachment point shall be
reinforced by the use of a plate not less than 75mm x 50mm x 3mm thick as per drawing I-4;
(c) to the safety cages; or
(d) to a substantial part of the automobile structure.

Under no circumstances shall a safety harness mounting bolt be used to affix a safety cage to the bodyshell.
/end quote

1. check the instructions supplied with the harnesses for vertical positioning
2. measure to ensure you can get the mount at least 150mm from the back of the neck - go for 140mm from the back of the seat if possible as that gives you some margin
3. assuming those measurements show the cage brace is far enough back weld a suitable mount direct to that brace.

under 2(c) the cage is where you should mount it so that's easy.

There doesn't appear to be anything too wildly out of order by your pics that you won't get away with as having been previously accepted.
Just make sure things like the welds are fixed.
Foot plates you may well be able to install without taking the whole thing out (and may not have been required for compliance).

You should track down a copy of the regs that applied at the time the car was built and log booked. Keep that with the car docs so you have proof of what was compliant then.

Last edited by aarc240; 02-02-2008 at 09:19 AM.
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:37 AM   #19
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Re the alternator/battery.
I recall this from when a mate put spots on his then brand new shiny white Colt 1100S - it just about died too!
I think he found the stock alternator was something like 32 or 35 amp. Unfortunately I can't recall what the replacement was pilfered from.
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Old 02-02-2008, 12:09 PM   #20
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there is a place in fyshwick that can beef them up a bit .
some of the newer alt's aren't that big and pump out the juice pretty well. my diahatsu had 4 lights and had no problems and it's about the right size. just have to chage the wireing to suit it. And there is one in the shed!
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Old 02-02-2008, 03:10 PM   #21
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Anything with fuel injection and an engine management system will have a higher output alternator (at least 60 to 65 amps, even for a 4 cylinder)
Those systems suck quite a bit of juice!

I don't recall any U-Pull-It type wreckers in ACT but it's been more than a few years so maybe you do now. Good source at decent prices.

Does the Colt have an ignition light? If not you'll have to use a blocking diode when swapping to a later internal regulator type.
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Old 02-02-2008, 03:33 PM   #22
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there is not that many wreckers left in the ACT
it's most times cheaper to get stuff posted from else where.
yes the car has an external regulator. and a charge light and oil light(now a gauge)
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Old 08-02-2008, 03:24 PM   #23
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now i can finally finish painting the inside
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Old 08-02-2008, 05:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MATNESmotorsports View Post
now i can finally finish painting the inside

again

Stu
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Old 08-02-2008, 05:27 PM   #25
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See, wasn't nearly as bad as you thought
Isn't it normal to paint the inside at least twice before finishing everything
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Old 08-02-2008, 05:42 PM   #26
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i cleaned up the floor and removed the little bit of deadener so i had to paint so much so the rusty look didn't come back.

now all i need is another harness, some more roll cage padding and he is off for some REGO FUN!!

and mine wasn't as bad as the other car that was there.


MATT
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Old 08-02-2008, 10:38 PM   #27
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Go get some dry ice to use on the sound proofing, it will hammer off in no time ( its so much fun ) you'll love it!

Then go for gold on the painting.
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Old 09-02-2008, 10:56 AM   #28
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just as easy with a hammer and chissel, just do it on a cold day
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Old 18-06-2008, 02:56 PM   #29
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got a bit distracted and have decided to go factory colors.



does any one know if i can get a permit on it as i would like to have a test drive before it goes to the pits. was thinking i might forget the roll cage part when applying for it.

MATT
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Old 18-06-2008, 03:03 PM   #30
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UVP from the RTA is your friend.
There is a recent thread on here about such matters.
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