Camber bolts - opinions

[mroberts]

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/ins...KCA4(size).pdf

What are people's thoughts on these ?

Looking to put them on the old sportswagon to try to get rid of some of the positive camber, and at $80 a pair they are cheaper than the full adjustable strut top mounts at $330.

Sorry for the PDF, was the only thing I coudl find about them.

Thanks.

[Kaptainballistik]

They have a tendancy to alow the strutt and Hub to move around when "Agressive " driving is called for.

I would Slot the strutt holes, And weld the washers onto the strutt to permantly adjust the Camber. ( Worked on my Lancia pretty well) .

[mroberts]

Even with a good amount of Loctite ?

My problem is that I don't know if I can justify $300 on a $1300 car that will never be competitive.

I was hoping for a solution that wouldn't involve grinding and welding, since all I have is a Dremel and my wife's disapproving gaze, which while firey is hard to control enough to weld with.

[smee]

Camber washers FTW.
Get them in varying degrees of offset. I have 1, 2 and 3.
Probably get them for less than $20 all up.

[mroberts]

Originally Posted by smee

Camber washers FTW.
Get them in varying degrees of offset. I have 1, 2 and 3.
Probably get them for less than $20 all up.

Sounds like a good deal.. how do they work, and where do I get them?

[gslrallysport]

Yep, camber bolts definately have a tendency to move around, even when still tight, so loctite won't help...

What sort of car is it for? I assume those strut tops for $330 were only camber adj, not caster?

There are a few options:
1. As Ballistik Dude said, just slot your struts, then weld new washers in the said location... I did this to both my civic rally car, and charade tarmac club car, and it works well. Albiet not adj, and only good for as long as you have the shock... Advantages, cheap and easy...

2. Get universal strut tops, and drill holes where you want the shock to sit... Advantages: Cheap when compared to fully adjustable tops, allows you to dial in caster as well as camber, and tilts the whole shock not just the hub... Disadvantages: Not adj and more expensive than either option 1, or camber bolts...

Matt Dyne just bought a pair, have a chat to him how he plans to use them. They're either available in solid bearing, or urethane encased, and either bell above or bell below... $225

http://dairally.net/shop/index.php?m...cPath=15_16_24

3. Fully adj strut tops... Advantages: Everything Disadvantages: Cost...

[mroberts]

It's a 1988 Subaru Sportswagon - the old L series.

The $330 strut tops were full floating adjustment - like the ones at the top of the page you linked to.

With the welding washers onto a slotted strut, are the washers necessary because you can't just drill a new hole far enough over on the strut, and need to close off the rest of the old hole ?

It's sounding like the slotted strut plan is the cheapest.

Sounds like all I need now is a pair of spring compressors, some jack stands, and someone with a grinder and a welder !

[gslrallysport]

Originally Posted by mroberts

With the welding washers onto a slotted strut, are the washers necessary because you can't just drill a new hole far enough over on the strut, and need to close off the rest of the old hole ?

Yeah can do... Just slot the hole, them weld back up behind what you've done... Its just the washers are easier, and allow you to put a camber guage on the wheel, and get the position right...

Just be carefull with your strut clearance, and what wheels you plan to run. Other than that, dead simple, and works a treat!