lower control arms and machine shop

[heyehy]

Hey all,

Yes spac, i am trying to throw away more money

I need to find a machine shop that can manafacture some lower control arms out of billet(?) something that is strong, and about 1-3" longer than my current ones. can anyone suggest someone in the act? or should I outsource it to O/S?

Currently running +ve camber on the fronts, due to a bad suspension setup from previous owner. 929L Wagon hubs welded onto 40mm bilstiens. I dont want to re'engineer these, as i have spent megabux with mr JW getting the brakes sorted on these.

I am thinking a longer lower control arm will help me out. Ideas?

[afifield]

Rather than starting with LCAs, the cheaper starting point is (assuming they're P36 40mm Bilsteins) to grab a pair of Commodore strut tops from Superpro or Noltec. The bolt spacing is wrong for the Capella mounts, so you have to mod them anyway. All you do is put the bolts in the place that gives you the camber and castor that you want. I got about 1 degree extra doing this.

If you still want LCAs made, get onto xxx. I can supply an LCA for him to measure if needed.

[Kaptainballistik]

Ahh Grasshopper........ Give me a week and I wll make you happy...... ( Prototype under construction.....)

[heyehy]

oh cappie tain, , my cappie tain, sounds like i need to be hightailing it to your place with liquor in hand!

[Spac]

RWD 323 LCAs with a coupla bits of 8mm or 10mm steel plate welded in. Makes them longer and adjustable.

Should cost less than a week's wage, even allowing for new ball-joints and paying for Uncle Rodney's time...
Whereas billet bits are gonna cost you megabucks.

[Kaptainballistik]

Balljoint taper is different methinks, But that can be worked around. ( Dick Smith reamer is the correct angle....) Usually they use a 6mm plate as the arms are only 4mm. Getting good rose ends in metric is an issue so Ill go measure my spare.

I got no idea what size it is ( well I did , but I fitted mine about 6 years ago.....), Ive never chewed one out, Just sits on the bench gathering dust....

At least with the 929 bits you wont bend the stub axle

Only catch , But is a backhanded advantage...... the 323 arms will bend on a big hit. So your drag links will stay intact ...And so will the car! Mind you Ive bent strutts, drag links, Stubaxles and Wheels and never a subframe!

[Kaptainballistik]

Brain dump.....

You can always modify the struttop to get 1 degree of extra neg! Its pretty easy too.

If you are interested in doing it that way Ill rustle up some pictures.

[heyehy]

ooh wuld be interested to see that. I have kmac adjustables that give it more or lots more camber. sigh

[Kaptainballistik]

Whatya sittin at now? And how much castor do you have? ( Pm me the no's if bashful...)

[heyehy]

Ha! I have no idea. I'll have to measure it up. i definately know its positive tho. . as for castor. i'll have to get it down to the wheelshop, however with me trying to rip the engine out tonight or tomorrow, its not going anywhere for a while.

Oh ROC is far to close. must work harder! faster!

[Kaptainballistik]

Ok, quick rule o' thumb *for a RX2, If you have heavy ( and I mean Im gona blow something in my cranium.....) steering try for more Neg and lessen the castor, Bad for geometry but you can catch a hairy tailslapper easier.

* Rick Bates paraphased Quote ,I just fitted power steering instead!