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Old 10-08-2008, 10:38 AM   #1
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DIY Bilstein Shock Rebuilding

Hi All,

We are currently running some Bilstein shocks in DMS struts (I'm told this is an 'early' DMS setup) on my Excel (originally from a Charade) and I'm really keen to learn how to service/rebuild them myself as no-one seems to do them locally here in SA. Also we took them out yesterday for a check and found on one that the circlip that holds it all in was half hanging out

I have had them rebuilt before but cant see how they get the gas back in there, any suggestions? there doesnt appear to be any kind of hole or valve to get it in.

One of the shocks has a part no. of 50603 3000 1000 the others appear to have been rechromed during their life and have lost the number but all appear to be the same.

Any advice much appreciated.

cheers,

David Marriner





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Old 10-08-2008, 11:31 PM   #2
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What does your upper spring seat look like? Is there room for the head of a M5 allen head screw somwhere right at the top of the strut?

Assuming "yes":
1. Drill a small hole in the spot. The gas will come out, and will force the swarf out, so wear safety goggles! Do NOT compress the shock after this point.
2. Lever up the "Do not open" cap.
3. Underneath it will be a snap ring. You need to push the seal head down and remove the snap ring. I've got a tool to push the seal head down - its made of a couple of bits of 25x25mm RHS, and some lengths of threaded rod - the shock/strut sits between the two threaded rods, and you use nuts to push the seal head down (dodgy description... I'll get a pic up of my tool in the next few days). I then use a ground and bent motorbike spoke as a seal pick to remove the snap ring - a good quality seal pick will do th job too.
4. Remove the seal head - sometimes the virtually fall out, sometimes they require a lot of effort - just really try to avoid compressing the shock!
5. Remove the (second) snap ring from under the seal head.
6. Pull the guts of of the shock. Oil will go everywhere, try to contain it.
7. Measure the depth of the floating/separator piston. Record the measurement.
8. Remove the floating piston. Usually a little bit of compressed air will do the job. Too much pressure and it'll fire out like a cannon....
9. Clean everything with brake or carby cleaner. Look for damage, particularly to the piston ring and the o-ring on the floating piston. Also look for crap caught in the valving shims. Check everything for straightness. If the shocks are really old, look for wear in the inner bore.
10. Tap that small hole that you drilled to 5x0.8, and insert the valve you bought from SOS Suspension in Penrith into it.
11. Re-insert the floating piston at the measured height. If you forgot to measure it, then make sure the valve piston won't hit it at full compression, and add a couple of mm clearance.
12. Re-insert the guts with new oil. Everyone seems to talk about 2.5W, but I seem to get better results with 5 or 7.5W. Overfill it, and accept that you'll get oil everywhere putting it back together - the alternative (air bubbles) is very un-cool, and should be avoided like herpes.
13. Make sure all of the snap rings are seated properly - if they come out while you're driving, its a PITA, but if they come out during regassing, it could be VERY ugly.
14. Get your local motorbike shop to regas them to 165psi (unless you have a different figure).

Enjoy.
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Old 11-08-2008, 04:02 PM   #3
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Thanks Spac,

unfortunately I think the spring seat sits right close to the top of the shock body but I'll check and see. Any idea how they get the gas in there without a valve?

cheers,

Dave
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Old 11-08-2008, 04:09 PM   #4
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"Fill "with Nitrogen then use the shock shaft to push the floating piston down seems the most sensible way.

There will be some atmospheric gasses in there, But Air is 70% Nitrogen anyway!
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Old 11-08-2008, 08:52 PM   #5
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Quote:
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"Fill "with Nitrogen then use the shock shaft to push the floating piston down seems the most sensible way.

There will be some atmospheric gasses in there, But Air is 70% Nitrogen anyway!
No.

First of all, you want at least a few mm of clearance between the shaft and the floating piston. The actual height of the floating piston alters how the shock behaves just before it bottoms out (which is important, if not crucial), and a too-high floating piston reduces the oil volume, making the shock more likely to overheat.
Secondly, it achieves nothing for you - it makes it hard to work out the final gas pressure (Sure, P1V1 = P2V2, but its a much harder way of doing things), makes it hard to reassemble the shock, and you'll still need to add pressure in the end.
Also, compressed air works fine, but has too much moisture in it - yeah, properly dried air will work fine, but is usually a lot harder to find than nitrogen.
If you use 'normal' compressed air, in the longer term there's the risk of corrosion, but the real issue is the water evaporating with heat, increasing the gas pressure (and thereby altering the way the shock works).

Dave, the valve can go in the side of the shock, if that makes it easier. The valve is a modified M5 allen head bolt, to give you an idea of how much room you need (not much).
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Old 24-08-2008, 09:51 PM   #6
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Firstly, my apologies for crappy photos that were taken with a crappy phone. The photos from the real camera take waaay too long to upload on dial up...

And yes, this is a rear shock rather than a strut. If you picture the yellow bits in my pics as being shiny chrome plate, then everything else works the same.

1. Drill a small hole in the very end of the shock body. The gas will come out, and will force the swarf out under pressure, so wear safety goggles! Do NOT compress the shock after this point.


2. Lever up the "Do not open" cap.



3. Underneath it will be a snap ring. You need to push the seal head down and remove the snap ring. I've got a tool to push the seal head down - its made of a couple of bits of 25x25mm RHS, and some lengths of threaded rod - the shock/strut sits between the two threaded rods, and you use nuts to push the seal head down.



I then use a ground and bent motorbike spoke as a seal pick to remove the snap ring - a good quality seal pick will do the job too.



4. Remove the seal head - sometimes they virtually fall out, sometimes they require a lot of effort - just really try to avoid compressing the shock! (No pic - I forgot).

5. Remove the (second) snap ring from under the seal head. (No pic - these shocks didn't have the second snap ring, which made life easier!)

Too many pics mean more than one post. Continued on post #10 and post #11.
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Old 24-08-2008, 09:54 PM   #7
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Here's a couple of interesting pics, that don't fit into my original step-by-step.


The first hole I drilled was in the wrong spot - it seems that these shocks have an extension piece welded on to make them longer. So the second hole (see finger) is at/near the very bottom of the actual gas chamber.

And then:

Hmmm.... oil dribbling out of the hole I drilled... This is a pretty good sign that the O-ring on the separator piston isn't keeping the oil and gas seperate. A drop or two is OK, but this is too much.

Oh Noes! Frothy oil! Yep, definitely need to look at that separator piston.
This is also why there's no photo for step #7 - the height of the separator piston was meaningless as soon as the oil got into the gas (and vise-versa).
The silver lining to this cloud, is that now we've found why the RX-7's rear end isn't as good as it should be.

More pics to come when I've got some worth using.
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Old 24-08-2008, 10:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
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I'll get a pic up of my tool in the next few days
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Old 25-08-2008, 10:03 AM   #9
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Top work Spac. Should be a sticky.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:46 PM   #10
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6. Pull the guts out of the shock. Oil will go everywhere, try to contain it.


Pour the remaining oil out of the shock body.

7. Measure the depth of the floating/separator piston. Record the measurement.

8. Remove the floating piston. Usually a little bit of compressed air will do the job. Too much pressure and it'll fire out like a cannon.... Which is usually funny, but is likely to damage the piston, and is probably/potentially dangerous.
The following pic shows three floating pistons. One Bilstein one with the seal on it, one with the seal removed, and the third is from an old Yamaha shock, to show how similar they all are.


9. Clean everything with brake or carby cleaner. Look for damage, particularly to the piston ring and the o-ring on the floating piston. Also look for crap caught in the valving shims. Check everything for straightness.
If the shocks are really old and/or have alloy bodies, look for wear in the inner bore.


10. Tap that small hole that you drilled to M5x0.8, and insert the valve you bought from SOS Suspension in Penrith into it. Loctite is a good idea to ensure a good seal. I also like to carefully file a bit of a flat onto the shock body to make the sealing washer's life easier - but this reduces the depth of the thread you just cut, so you'll have to compromise.



(note that the carby cleaner you use to flush the swarf out will eat through the fresh paint...)

11. Reinsert the floating/seperator piston. Be careful not to tear or otherwise damage the O-ring when you first put it in (who-ever had originally built these shocks hadn't been careful enough, which is why they leaked gas into the oil).
I like to use a smear of shock oil to make it easier.

If you don't have a measurement for the height of the floating piston, then simply make sure that the valve piston won't hit it, even at full compression.
In ththe above photo, you can see the shiny bit in the middle of the seperator piston where it was being clouted by the valve piston.
The lower you set the floating piston, the more the shock's spring effect will increase just before the shock is fully compressed (as the gas pressure increases rapidly). I can't say that I've ever felt the difference in a car, but you can feel it on a bike shock.


11. Nearly fill the shock body with new oil.

Everyone seems to talk about using 2.5W oil, but I seem to get better results with 5.
If you have an early deCarbon shock, with the slotted valve shim (looks a bit like a slotted chopper wheel in an ignition distributor), then go for 7.5 or 10W.
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Old 04-09-2008, 12:47 PM   #11
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12.Then inset the guts of the shock.

Smoothly pump the shock through its range of travel to get the air bubbles out from under the valve piston.
Then lift the valve piston up until its just below the top snap ring groove, and totally fill the shock.

Then push the seal head down. Oil will spill out - live with it.



13. Make sure all of the snap rings are seated properly - if they come out while you're driving, its a PITA. But if they come out during regassing, it could be VERY ugly.

14. Get your local motorbike shop to regas them to 165psi (unless you have a different figure). Make sure the bike shop has the "Ohlins/Yamaha style" syringe fitting, rather than just the plain old schrader (tyre valve) fitting.

Enjoy.
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Old 04-09-2008, 01:33 PM   #12
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Great work Spac!

Who says you don't contribute anything to the forum
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:33 PM   #13
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Great thread Spac, I have 4 shocks I'll send to you for the $50 rebuild.

One question, what about the shaft seal - how hard is it to replace?
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Old 04-09-2008, 10:08 PM   #14
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Seals are easy to replace. I had been lead to believe that Bilsteins run a conventional seal, but the ones I've had apart have the funky and reliable two piece seal (a la deCarbons).

The good seals are a two-piece thing - one piece is essentially a rubber washer, while the second piece is a top-hat shape, that fits into the hole in the rubber washer. Basically, as the pressure on the seal increases, the seal seals more tightly.
I've got a pic, but its useless (bearing in mind the low quality of the above pics...).

Yamaha used a similar type of seal, but if you buy a replacement part nowdays, you get a whole new seal head with a conventional seal, and they are a lot more leak prone. Supposedly, they have less stiction, but I can't feel a difference on a 90kg dirt bike, so I doubt I'll feel the difference in a 1000kg++ rally car.
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Old 05-09-2008, 09:27 AM   #15
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Top work Aussie.
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